Attracting frogs and newts to a garden pond

Why welcome frogs and newts?

Frogs and newts are among the most rewarding wildlife you can encourage into a garden pond. They eat slugs, snails, beetles and flies, and their tadpoles graze on algae, helping to keep the water clear. More than that, they are a sign of a healthy, balanced pond. With so many natural ponds lost from the British countryside, garden ponds have become vital refuges for our native amphibians. Common frogs, common toads, smooth newts and palmate newts will all readily move in if the habitat suits them. Great crested newts are rarer and legally protected, but a well-designed pond may still attract them in some areas. Creating a safe haven is simpler than you might think.

Build in shallow, safe edges

The single most important feature for amphibians is an easy way in and out. Frogs and newts are not strong climbers, and steep, smooth pond sides can trap them. Aim for at least one gently sloping beach area where the water meets the bank. A shallow shelf just 5–10cm deep is ideal for spawning, and a gradual slope covered with pebbles or gravel gives amphibians a firm footing.

• Create a beach of stones, gravel or cobbles that slopes into the water.
• Leave one side of the pond with a shallow shelf of 0–15cm for frog spawn and newt eggs.
• Place a half-submerged log or a flat stone at the edge as an escape route.
• Avoid vertical butyl liners that are left exposed — cover them with rocks or planting.
• Keep the pond at least 60cm deep in the centre so it does not freeze solid in winter.

If you already have a steep-sided pond, you can add a ramp of rough stones or a piece of untreated timber to give amphibians a leg-up. Check it regularly for stability.

Plant native species for cover and spawning

Native pond plants provide shelter, egg-laying sites and hunting grounds. Newts wrap their eggs individually in the leaves of submerged plants, while frogs lay their spawn in shallow water among marginal growth. Aim for a mix of marginal, submerged and floating plants, but leave some open water for basking and for birds to drink.

• Marginal plants: water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides), brooklime (Veronica beccabunga), marsh marigold (Caltha palustris), water mint (Mentha aquatica) and lesser spearwort (Ranunculus flammula).
• Submerged oxygenators: hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), water starwort (Callitriche species) and curled pondweed (Potamogeton crispus).
• Floating plants: frogbit (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae) or a small native water lily for shade.

Avoid invasive non-native plants such as New Zealand pygmyweed, water fern and parrot's feather. They spread rapidly, smother native plants and are illegal to allow into the wild. Always check labels and never take plants from the wild.

Provide log piles, stones and wild corners

Amphibians do not spend all their time in water. Frogs and newts need damp, sheltered places on land for resting, feeding and hibernating. A log pile in a shaded corner is perfect. Stack untreated logs, branches and brash loosely so there are gaps and crevices. Leave some leaf litter and moss around it to keep the area cool and moist.

• Build a log pile in partial shade, ideally near the pond but not in it.
• Add a rockery or a few flat stones with gaps beneath for newts to hide.
• Allow a patch of long grass or nettles to grow wild — frogs love the cover.
• Keep a compost heap undisturbed; newts often hibernate in them.
• Avoid tidying everything in autumn — leave seed heads and fallen leaves.

From October to March, amphibians may be hibernating in these spots. If you must move a log pile or compost heap, do it gently and be prepared to relocate any sleepy residents to a similar damp, sheltered spot.

Manage the pond gently

Fish are the biggest threat to amphibian eggs and tadpoles, so if you want frogs and newts, it is best to keep the pond fish-free. Avoid pesticides and fertilisers near the pond, as these can kill amphibians directly or poison their food. Top up with rainwater rather than tap water, which contains chlorine and chloramine. If you must use tap water, let it stand for 24 hours first and add it slowly.

Some blanketweed and algae are natural, but if they take over, remove excess by hand rather than using chemicals. Leave a little debris at the bottom for newts to hide in, but not so much that the pond stagnates. In winter, avoid smashing ice — the shock waves can harm amphibians. Instead, float a small ball or a pan of hot water on the surface to melt a hole gently.

Watching without disturbing

The best time to spot frogs and newts is at dusk in spring and early summer. Use a torch with a piece of red cellophane over the lens — red light disturbs them far less than white. Sit quietly and watch for ripples, or listen for the soft croaking of male frogs. Count spawn clumps in spring and newt eggs on folded leaves later on. Never handle amphibians unless absolutely necessary; if you must move one, wet your hands first and avoid sunscreen or insect repellent. Keep dogs and cats away from the pond edge, and never introduce spawn or tadpoles from another pond, as this can spread disease. With a little patience, your garden will become a thriving haven for these fascinating creatures.